When imagining the amalfi coast one immediately thinks of its marvellous villages perched over the sea that are lit up at night like nativity scenes sculpted by an artist's hand. To the blue of the Mediterranean water that suddenly turns emerald green, gently caressing beaches of sometimes white, sometimes dark sand. To the maritime pines that stand out with noble bearing in picture-postcard landscapes. A Positano and its colourful decorated lemons that adorn strictly handmade dishes and fabrics. A Ravello and its belvederes adorned with white statues contrasting with the intensely purple bougainvillea. A Amalfi and its cloister of paradise hidden in that cathedral whose architecture reveals the many passages of those who have dominated it: Romans, Goths, Byzantines and Normans. And if you say Tramonti someone who has just returned from this corner of paradise less than an hour from Naples will almost certainly smile as they recall the splendid sunset over the sea they admired the night before they left. Tramonti, on the other hand, is a treasure trove of culture and rural beauty that timidly approaches coastal tourism without actually envying any of it.

Amalfi Coast what to see (besides the sea)?

Searching what to see on the amalfi coast the web offers hundreds of articles with more or less garnished lists of famous beaches, sea-view paths, Saracen towers, boutiques in alleyways with charming pastel-coloured houses and architecture. Yet other treasures in which it is rich are rarely mentioned, probably because these are less linked to the sea. Could it be the glorious past of the Maritime Republic of Amalfi that has relegated everything that does not see the seascape as the protagonist to an anonymous brushstroke in the background?

Amalfi Coast: how to make pizza in Tramonti

A different pizza from the one commonly understood as such and in particular as Neapolitan pizza can be discovered by visiting Isidore Case in the widespread municipality of Tramonti. You are welcomed by a man with an infectious smile and disarming simplicity, capable of making you forget in a second an environment that may not be Ausl-proof, but is nevertheless picturesque and perfectly contextualised.

Wholemeal pizza sunsets

To be able to listen to Isidoro Caso tell the story of Tramonti pizza in its most ancestral version as a derivation of biscuit bread is a privilege. So much for the modern circular economy! From the earliest times, wheat was cultivated under pergola-trained vines whose pruned branches were used to light fires for months. Four types of durum wheat (Senatore Cappelli, Claudio, Marco Aurelio and Brigante) and one type of soft wheat (gentilrosso) enriched only with mother yeast and water form the dough for this bread, which is baked a first time. This same bread is then bisque-baked, i.e. it is broken and baked again for a whole day. The result is a bread with a very long shelf life and for this reason perfect for ancient sea voyages, where it was softened with little sea water and for this reason those who made it were careful to use little salt.

Pruning Isidore case

Back in the day, the pizza tramontana was just an accessory to bread: fresh tomatoes, a few anchovies, garlic and a little oregano were spread on the dough and placed in the oven to test its temperature. Based on how quickly the pizza cooked, it was estimated whether the oven was ready to accommodate the much more precious bread. In fact, the method was by gravity: the bread and pizza would first cook at over 400 degrees for 15 minutes, then when the oven cooled down to 150 °C, the bread would be prepared for the second cooking, which was much slower and more delicate.

Biscuit bread soaked in water and seasoned only with extra virgin olive oil, oregano and salt is an experience, but so is bread baked once with the fiascone tomato puree homemade by Antonio Di Martino deserves... Ah, a total of 100 quintals of Fiascone tomatoes are produced.

Pizza of sunsets recipe

A simple red wine from tintore, piede di colombo and nero d'avola grapes accompanies this tasty snack that precedes a visit to Isidoro Caso's winery. This small cellar comes alive with traditional dances where the protagonists are mainly young people, animated by the tambourine de A paranza do tramuntan of which Isidoro himself is leader and founder. And it is also here that the farmer's wine made only with experience is born, which - incredibly - does not stink, on the contrary it is really pleasant and is drunk all too well.

Isidore case sunsets

Amalfi Coast: discovering ancient crafts

Amarante Luigi, 90 years old and in splendid shape, is the last master basket maker of Tramonti. He does not speak Italian and does not even understand it, so to ask for a small demonstration of his technique we used the Neapolitan-Italian translator.

Amalfi Coast handicraft baskets sunsets

Incredible craftsmanship that may be lost forever in the face of the speed of an increasingly consumerist world that has made disposability its workhorse. And these baskets destined to last for years will only be the memory of generations of our parents or grandparents. Who - together with Luigi - teach us the most important of all environmentalist lessons: paying a few coins more for something that will last makes you spend less money and limits waste.

Amalfi Coast handicraft baskets sunsets

Amalfi Coast: seeing chapels hidden in nature

The rock chapel of Gete, another locality in the widespread village of Tramonti, is a small jewel with Gothic charm. For centuries it was part of the Church of Sant'Angelo until it was destroyed by the flood of 1735. Curiously, the chapel was enlarged again in 1931, but the 1954 flood swept away the new buildings and only the original rock chapel remained.

Rupestrian chapel geta sunsets amalfi coast

A simple place of worship built in a cave around the 8th century on the remains of an ancient pagan necropolis was extended in the 12th century and enriched with Romanesque columns and Gothic arches.

Rupestrian chapel gete sunsets amalfi coast

The decadent charm makes this small rock chapel on the Amalfi Coast a perfect place for fans of wine urbex.

Rupestrian chapel gete sunsets amalfi coast

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Amalfi Coast What to do (besides sunbathing)?

Amalfi Coast: How is mozzarella made?

Mozzarella has become a symbol of Italy around the world. The credit for its popularity is surely due to its now being a basic ingredient in almost every pizza flavours possible. Visit the Caseificio al Valico and watching the traditional preparation of mozzarella was a wonderful experience.

Caseificio al valico mozzarella sunsets

The manual skill with which braids, mozzarellas and knots are formed in seconds is amazing. And being able to taste the freshly made hot mozzarella... well I don't know how much I've eaten, a treat for any sommelier's palate and an experience to be had on the Amalfi Coast. I am absolutely certain that for one afternoon even the most beautiful beach will not be missed.

Caseificio al valico mozzarella sunsets

Amalfi Coast: a stroll through a lemon grove

An unusual experience is certainly to take a walk in a lemon grove on a sunny day. Le Ants are a farm that grows Costa d'Amalfi PGI lemons and offers the 'Lemon Tour"This is a walk along an ancient mule track that leads to terraces where splendid Amalfi sfusati lemons dye the bright green of the plants and grass surrounding patrons with yellow.

Stroll through the lemon grove

Le Formichelle is a family business: dad Ruben Giordano, mum Luisa Coppola and their three children Matteo, Nicola and Amelia, while also doing other jobs, all contribute to the growth of this project. Nicola accompanied us on the lemon tour telling us all the secrets of this jewel of the Amalfi coast as we venture along an easy route that is also perfect for those who do not like slopes or suffer from vertigo.

Le Formichelle Lemon House

The mountain panorama from the lemon house is simply stunning!

Amalfi Coast panorama

When the walk is over, Mum welcomes guests with a baked pumpkin with lots of garlic and wonderful savoury pies containing only km 0 ingredients.

Limonaia le ants snack

The father cuts the cheeses to serve with the exquisite candied lemon marmalade while the son offers a delicious aperitif a hundred times better than the more famous Spritz made with lemon marmalade, limoncello and sparkling wine. A dreamy snack.

Limonaia le formichelle limoncello

Amalfi Coast: a visit to a winery

It is impossible for a sommelier to enjoy a few days' holiday without visiting a local winery and discovering some unknown wines. Tenuta San Francesco was established in 2004 by the four founding partners Gaetano and Generoso Bove, Vincenzo D'Avino and Luigi Giordano and is advised by Irpinian oenologist Carmine Valentino. Its peculiarity are the huge, centuries-old vines that populate the vineyard, true monuments of Italian viticulture.

Sunsets cellar visit

Inside the historic 18th-century farmhouse surrounded by the greenery of the Monti Lattari regional park is the wine-making cellar with stainless steel barrels of various sizes and a small cooperage.

san francesco estate

Here you can make a wine experience accompanied by the seasonal products that the area offers (the ricotta cheese is incredible). Then, after burning a few calories visiting the vineyards, you taste the wines and immerse yourself in the flavours of a lost rural world.

Tramonti San Francesco lunch in the cellar

"É ISS" Campania IGT Rosso 2019 14%vol, Tenuta San Francesco ❤️❤️+

It has a barely transparent, consistent ruby red colour. The nose is delicate, very elegant and broad with notes of criollo chocolate, vanilla, plum, sandalwood, lavender. In the mouth it is consistent, soft, very fresh, structured, with enveloping tannin and great balance. Excellent drinkability.

St Francis is held

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Amalfi Coast what to eat (besides fish)?

Farmhouse Il Tintore

A bucolic atmosphere envelops this small family-run agritourism, whose workhorse are the cooking classes where you can learn how to make fresh local pasta, visit the vegetable garden and pick the seasonal vegetables and wild herbs with which to season the pasta prepared, and taste all the products of theagritourism Il Tintore in a 3-course lunch.

Agritourism the dyer sunsets

Fresh pasta seasoned with wild herbs, chilli pepper and crispy guanciale is the best thing I have eaten on the Amalfi Coast. A simple yet umami flavour, capable of opening the memory box no matter where you grew up.

Agriturismo il dintore reviews

I don't eat cooked fruit, but a pear cooked in red wine is a mystical experience. The perfect way to end a home-cooked meal, but one that requires a lost craftsmanship and is worth finding outside the home.

Agriturismo il tintore amalfi coast

Sal De Riso Restaurant

In a tastefully furnished environment where white is interrupted by blue and coral red, Salvatore De Riso entrusted the kitchen to the young Chef Giuseppe Cozzolino who has also gained experience with Antonino Cannavacciuolo. The ingredients are km0 and come from the sea or the Lattari Mountains, while the preparation and cooking techniques sometimes wink at the Far East.

Sal de riso restaurant Amalfi coast

Delicious, balanced and dry are the courgette flowers stuffed with ricotta from Tramonti, provola cheese from the Monti Lattari, Armatore anchovies and fresh mint on a fondue of Provolone del Monaco PDO and Costa d'Amalfi PGI lemon zest.

Sal de riso minor amalfi coast restaurant

The 'ndunderi minoresi are capable of converting even non-gnocchi lovers. Could it be due to the saffron from Tramonti with Cetarese pesto, the colatura di alici riserva Armatore (anchovies from the Armatore reserve) and the crumbled tarallo with which they are seasoned?

Sal de riso minor amalfi coast restaurant

The dessert, however, is the highlight of the dinner: 'Lemon Amalfitana meets Milan' is a treat for all the senses. It is a small lemon filled with white chocolate and saffron cream, hazelnut crunch, candied lemon zest, dried Pantelleria capers and rosemary oil, accompanied by saffron sauce, small Amalfi cake and lemon and saffron cream ice cream.

sal de riso minor pastry on the amalfi coast

Restaurant Torre Normanna Maiori

Among the restaurants on the Amalfi Coast the one that impressed me the most was definitely Norman Tower in Maiori. An incredible place, a medieval tower that becomes a restaurant perched over the sea.

Restaurant torre normanna maiori

The perfect place to organise a romantic evening or wedding! Apart from the beautiful stone interior rooms, you can enjoy one of the most beautiful panoramic terraces in Europe. In the evening it is certainly charming thanks to the beautiful lights of the neighbouring villages, but during the day, when the sky and the sea form a horizon whose boundary is difficult to discern, it must be overpowering.

Restaurant torre normanna Amalfi coast

Many with a place like this would be satisfied with mediocre catering, but the Prato brothers are really good. Cuisine ready to satisfy every need with the freshest fish and simple yet refined flavours and impeccable service.

Torre normanna restaurant raw fish

Tramonti gives new eyes

A trip to this small village gives a new perspective on the Amalfi Coast and lends it a rural charm that does not detract from the fashionable atmosphere of its beaches. On the contrary, Tramonti can be an interesting starting point for a complete experience in these places and savour all they have to offer, especially from a wine and food point of view, fundamental for all sommeliers. Here you can enjoy the coolness even in summer when the towns on the coast are dying of heat and save some money that can be promptly reinvested in wine and food... 😄

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