The timorasso vine variety is an indigenous Piedmontese grape suitable for producing quality white wines suitable for long bottle ageing. On some labels it is possible to find the mention "Timorasso Derthona"the ancient name of the city of Tortonaadded with the aim of placing the wine in the area most suited to the cultivation of this vine. These tasting notes require a necessary premise. Accomplice also to the climatic trend of recent years, there are now two gustatory strands of Timorasso wine: one more sharp and vertical, shifted to citrus and hydrocarbon, and the other fatter, dominated by ripe apricot and tropical fruit. Personally, the Derthona Timorasso that I appreciate is the one I find most faithful to the grape variety and this is inexorably reflected in my judgements.

Timorasso Derthona at Palazzo Bovara, Milan

I tasted almost all the references present for timorasso wine and this is my personal selection in order of tasting, on the premise that I chose only one wine per winery. As always, the wines I liked best are marked with 1, 2 or 3 hearts. I consider a '+' to be 1/3 heart.

Tasting #1: Timorasso Derthona Colli Tortonesi DOC 2020, Tenute Rade ❤️❤️

It is straw yellow and bright, consistent. The nose is fine, complex and with very elegant hydrocarbon notes. Lime and a barely noticeable citrus can also be recognised. In the mouth it enters coherently, fresh, savoury, structured and with a long, salivating finish.

From the same company I also tasted the 2018, but I must say that the 2020 has an edge, obviously evaluated in bottle potential.

Timorasso derthona wine

Tasting #2: "Tantéi" Timorasso Colli Tortonesi DOC 2021, Mandriola

It is straw yellow and bright, consistent. The nose has notes of tartlets with fresh fruit and custard, unusual for this type of wine, but pleasant. In the mouth it is consistent, warm, quite fresh, structured and long.

Timorasso derthona wine

Tasting #3: "Il montino" Colli Tortonesi DOC 2018, La Colombera +

It is straw yellow and bright, consistent. It has a very intense hydrocarbon nose that I would have liked to find again in the mouth where it enters however soft, warm, structured, fresh and with a very almondy finish that makes you salivate. 

Timorasso derthona wine

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Tasting #4: "Chiaror sul masso" Timorasso VSQ Pas Dosé 2018, I Carpini ++

It is pale straw yellow in colour and brilliant with a very fine, numerous and persistent perlage. The nose is delicate and elegant with notes of aromatic herbs. In the mouth it is creamy, fresh, savoury and structured with a long finish.

Timorasso derthona sparkling wine i carpini

Tasting #5: Timorasso Derthona Colli Tortonesi DOC 2020, Francesco Iandolo

It has a brilliant and consistent straw yellow colour. On the nose it is delicate, fine and elegant with notes of tropical fruit and cedar that fade into a barely noticeable sage. In the mouth it is consistent, savoury and structured.

Timorasso derthona wine Francesco iondolo

Tasting #6: "Ca degli olmi" Timorasso Derthona Colli Tortonesi DOC 2019, Canevaro Luca

It is straw yellow and bright, consistent. The nose is intense with barely perceptible notes of hydrocarbons. In the mouth it is very savoury, structured and with an almost salty finish.

Wine timorasso derthona canevaro luca

Tasting #7: "Thimes" Timorasso Derthona Colli Tortonesi DOC 2018, Alvio Pestarino

It is pale straw yellow and brilliant, consistent. The nose is not particularly complex, but pleasant, with just a hint of hydrocarbons and notes of white flowers and peach. in the mouth it is fresh, savoury, structured and with a long, almost salty finish.

Timorasso derthona wine alvio pestarino

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Tasting #8: Timorasso Colli Tortonesi DOC 2019, Boveri Luigi ❤️

It is pale straw yellow and brilliant, consistent. The nose is elegant and complex with notes of cedar, a delicate hydrocarbon, white pepper and a faintly hinted vanilla. On the palate it is consistent, fresh, salty, structured and with a long finish that veers towards citrus.

Timorasso wine Boveri Luigi

Tasting #9: Timorasso Colli Tortonesi DOC 2022, Vietti +

It is a slightly discoloured straw yellow, consistent. On the nose I particularly appreciate that it does not have that ripe apricot note of the other 2022s I have tasted, but veers all the way towards wet crumb and citrus. In the mouth it enters coherent, savoury and very fresh. Excellent drinkability and interesting bottle-ageing potential.

Wine timorasso derthona vietti

Tasting #10: Timorasso Derthona Colli Tortonesi DOC 2022, Viberti

It is bright straw yellow and consistent. The nose is another timorasso that is all about apricots, but at least with nice whole fruit. In the mouth it is consistent, quite fresh, savoury and structured.

Timorasso derthona viberti wine

Tasting #11: Timorasso Derthona 2022, Sassaia

It is straw yellow and bright, consistent. On the nose, a very perceptible note of wood creates a beautiful wine that moves away from the canons of Timorasso Derthona to embrace a style usually more typical of certain great chardonnays, especially in the mouth where it is nonetheless very balanced. Savoury finish reminiscent of vanilla. Although not suitable for those seeking a precise standard of Timorasso wine, it is interesting for sommeliers who like to experiment.

Timorasso derthona sassaia wine

A brief reflection on vintages

From the Timorasso wine tastings made on this and other days, a very hot, but overall well-managed 2018 vintage emerges. The result is a ready-made Timorasso Derthona that has fewer years of bottle ageing in prospect. I found the same condition in the 2022 which, especially in some areas, has distorted the herbaceous and mineral hints typical of the Timorasso grape to the point of turning to an unusual ripe apricot. Although the 2022 has not yet had a good amount of time in the bottle to allow this grape variety to equilibrate, I have rarely seen great potential for Timorasso Derthona in this vintage, with a few virtuous exceptions such as Vietti.

The Timorasso wine of the 2019 vintage also 'betrays' a hot year, but in my opinion did not suffer in terms of quality. Due to a grape variety that ripens quite late and is suited to the production of alcoholic and structured white wines for ageing, I find the wines of this vintage with a fair amount of bottle potential. More long-lived and interesting are the 2020 and 2021 vintages, then the individual case must be analysed from producer to producer. In general, however, I would advise sommeliers who want to add some Timorasso Derthona wines to their cellar to consider the 2019 and 2021 as vintages to focus on.

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