Urbana Winery is an ambitious project that places wine production in a metropolis like Milan with a format inspired by the oldest Bordeaux négociants who not only took care of sales but also created the best cuts.

Urbana Winery: the project

The grapes are carefully selected before arriving at the winery in Via Ascanio Sforza on the Alzata Naviglio Pavese in Milan. This is where all the subsequent stages of vinification take place, starting with a further selection of the grapes followed by pressing, fermentation, maturation, bottling and even consumption, as the wine can be enjoyed directly in the cellar accompanied by excellent snacks.

Milan urban winery

Each wine is a project in its own right that it shares with the entire production of Cantina Urbana Winery, which is based on a method that does not want to bear the labels of others, but wants to be true only to itself with a style based on the choice of fermentation (spontaneous or with wine yeasts selected) and container according to the type of wine and on limiting thesulphur dioxide.

Milan amphorae urban cellar

The aim of Cantina Urbana Milano is to merge the work of small wine growers from all over Italy - young revolutionaries or elderly traditionalists united by their love for the healthiness of the earth - with a small production, but one that takes place in a city with a European matrix that is open and connected to the whole world.

Milan urban aperitif cellar

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Cantina Urbana Milan: the wines tasted

Urbana Winery tasting #1: Ancestrale

Malvasia 100% | maceration 5 days + steel | 12% vol | € 15.80

It is a deep golden yellow with bronze reflections. The nose is intense, but with an unclean nose characteristic of natural wines that covers the nevertheless distinct aromas of the grape variety. On the palate it is almost reminiscent of a cider, however it is consistent, fresh, fairly structured and still has a good drinkability. Not mine, but pleasant in its own right.

Urban winery milan

Urbana Winery tasting #2: Milano Bianco 2023 (organic wine)

riesling italico + pinot grigio | steel | 12.5% vol | € 9.90

It is straw yellow and bright, consistent. The nose is delicate and clean with notes of vanilla, white flowers and white peach. On the palate it is consistent, citrusy, very fresh, very savoury and quite structured with an already pleasant drinkability despite having just been bottled. Very pleasant.

Urban winery milan white wine

Urbana Winery tasting #3: Bianco King 2023 ❤️

100% chardonnay | steel + barrique | 13% vol | € -

It is deep straw yellow with green-gold reflections, consistent. The nose is intense and very fruity with notes of green apple, vanilla, almond and white chocolate. On the palate it is consistent, fresh, soft, with a great acid backbone and a nice structure. Freshly bottled, it shows great promise and already reveals great longevity potential.

Milan urban winery riesling wine

Urbana Winery tasting #4: Ringhio Orange 2023 ❤️++

100% riesling | amphora | 12.5% vol | € 21.50

It is a deep golden yellow with golden reflections. Delicate and elegant nose with notes of pastry, apricot, honey and candied mandarin. In the mouth it enters coherently, soft, fresh, savoury, structured and overall already balanced despite having been in the bottle for only a short time. Very pleasant to drink, although certainly blind the variety would be difficult to recognise and it is recommended that these taste notes be taken into account when choosing it.

Urban winery white wine chardonnay

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Urbana Winery tasting #5: Milano Rosso 2023 (organic wine) +

croatina and barbera | steel | 13% vol | € 9.90

It is ruby red with purple highlights at the edges, almost impenetrable and consistent. The nose is delicate with barely perceptible notes of black pepper, cherry and vanilla. In the mouth it is consistent, acidic, soft, structured and with a long vanilla finish.

Milan red urban cellar

Urbana Winery tasting #6: Naviglio Rosso IGT Pavia Pinot Noir 2023

100% pinot noir | steel | 13% vol | € 18.90

It is transparent and consistent ruby red. The nose is not clean and barely recognisable notes of underbrush. In the mouth it is consistent in its faults. I did not like it.

Urban winery winery naviglio rosso

Urbana Winery tasting #7: Barbera 2023

100% barbera | steel + barrique | currently not for sale

It presents an impenetrable ruby red colour with purplish highlights at the edges, consistent. The nose is not particularly intense and complex, but still dominated by pleasant toasty notes. In the mouth it enters coherently, very fresh, acidic and with somewhat green tannins. It needs time in the bottle to refine.

Cantina urbana milano barbera barrique

A little reflection

Cantina Urbana Winery is an interesting project that enriches Milan with a perfect proposal for a sommelier who wants to have a quality aperitif among the barrels and perhaps take a few bottles home. The wines in power are there, although today there is a marked difference in quality between white and red wines: the former are absolutely more worthy of attention for an expert palate. Normally - especially in projects similar to this one - it is easier to find passable or even good red wines than white wines, and this suggests that there has probably been a particular focus (perhaps still dictated by some fear) on the latter in winemaking. I hope that with the 2024 vintage this difference will be levelled out and the red wines of Cantina Urbana Milano will shine in the same light as the white wines.

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